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Leading surf journalist Tim Baker has profiled the surfing world's most inspiring characters, encountered over two decades of surf writing, to highlight the life lessons and boundless inspiration to be gained from a lifestyle built around waveriding. From salty old surf legends to modern pro surf stars, to surfers from all walks of life writers, musicians, aid workers, ethicists the common theme in all these surfers' lives is how their personal journeys have been shaped and informed by their experiences in the ocean.
'I think one of the most powerful outcomes of surfing is how it creates community and shared experiences across all sections of society. Surfing is a lingua franca of nature. Even dolphins and other sea creatures surf.' Vezen Wu, scientist
'Just the feeling of the water on you, diving and paddling, duck diving your first wave, seeing a set come, turning around and stroking into it, that initial rush as you drop down the face, the jolts of acceleration as you go through the manoeuvres there's nothing like it. The only thing that actually comes close to riding waves is sex.'
Special Online Price Only RRP: $35.00
QBD: $29.75
| Availability: | Available at our supplier, usually ships in 10 to 14 days.
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| ISBN 13: | 9780732284862 |
| ISBN 10: | 0732284864 |
| Binding: | Paperback |
| Pages: | 356 |
| Dimensions: | 234 x 153mm |
| Released: | 01/09/2008 |
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