Benin, West Africa. And Annie Caulfield is discovering the country under the charge of the eccentric, endlessly talkative taxi-driver Isidore. Having taken her under his wing, he is showing her the sights while providing his frequently bizarre but always extraordinary commentary on everything from ancient times to the day-to-day.
Their adventures, as they rattle round Benin in his battered Peugeot, take them on a grand tour of the fantastic and the bewildering, from meetings with kings and shamans to magical vodou ceremonies. Funny and tragic in equal measure, Caulfield and Isidore's journey is a startling and strange trip right into the heart of modern Africa.